Movement Mag Issue 8, 2005
This is a story about the moment where this cover shot very nearly didn't happen...
It was probably the best day of surf I've had at this deep south, West Australian reef. Perfect all day offshore, groomed 8-10ft swell and just our tight crew that motored out there this particular day in May 2005 including myself, Chad Jackson, Dave Winchester, Sean Virtue, Brad Hughes and Chris White videoing, Toinzy (Phil Gallagher - Aquatech Imaging Solutions) was shooting. At around 2pm following an incredible morning session, we decided to check a nearby slab and myself, Winchester, Virtue, Hughes and Chaddy J did a rock/scissors/paper game to see who'd stay and shoot with Toinzy, while the rest went on a recon mission. I lost the game and was a bit gutted at missing the chance to check a nearby unsurfed monster slab. On cue, as the human sacrifice ski crew motored off into the distance, a perfect set stormed my way and with Toinzy yelling from the channel I had no option but to put my head down and charge this glassy, double up beast! The 8ft wave drained really hard off the reef and I struggled to hold a clean line in the barrel after an intense freefall. I managed to hold it together through a wide open pit and I could see Toinzy in the perfect spot up near the lip on the shoulder...what a link up! I came out after the spit and let out a big hoot as I pulled off the wave hoping to see the same reaction from Toinzy, but he was GONE!! A tomb-stoning board in the impact zone alerted me to the fact that he had been too close to the barrel and had got sucked over and he was now getting obliterated! I raced in towards him and was relieved to see him eventually surface, but there was angst in his face and I immediately thought he was injured..."You OK Toinzy?!" I yelled, "Nah mate, I lost my housing, FUCK!" Shit!! We frantically looked for it in the impact zone for 15minutes with no success, then Toinzy decided he'd scout the inshore shoreline and I'd check out the peak zone in case it had drifted out. Sure enough as I neared the lineup I saw a red housing bobbing right near the peak about 50metres away with a big set approaching..."TOINZYYYY!!!" I screamed, but he was too far away and couldn't hear me so I sprinted towards the red housing. The housing just made it over the lip of the first wave of an 8footer and my legs and arms were burning as I scrambled to get to it before the 2nd bigger wave of the set honed in on it, but it was too late. I watched in horror as the red housing went over in the lip of a 10ft beast, 2metres away from my outstretched arm. So close! I was devestated - Photos of my best wave all day and my mates camera, both GONE! I scouted the impact zone for 20minutes with no luck. I eventually did the long paddle in to the beach because I could see Toinzy desperately scrounging the beach for any sign of his camera. I eventually got to the beach and made my way towards Toinzy and I couldn't believe my eyes when I saw he had his red housing in his hands!! We laughed and hooted hysterically and he told me how he'd mentally hit rock bottom and had been crying on the beach when he'd looked up and saw his red housing floating towards some inshore rocks (the set where I saw it get sucked over in the lip had washed it in towards shore!). In a frantic effort, he had got to it in time to save it from being bashed against the rocks and the Movement Issue 8 cover that nearly never was, lived to tell it's tale.
- Ryan Hardy
Link below to purchase the NEWEST 'Return of Movement' Issue, psyched!!